Wednesday, February 18, 2009

An Experiment in Toughness

Today we are a little back to normalcy. Rose is still sick but the cough is dissipating. Dinah is back to work though tired. With all that illness in the house, cooking has been difficult. So with time being tight I did what all members of the Huff clan do, I turned to the grill. Last night was pork, the night before beef.

On Valentine's Day part of our romantic celebration was going to the grocery. Corny? I know. I picked up a London broil on sale. London broils are not the tenderest cuts of meat, there is a reason most people marinate them. But it was handy Monday night and I was short on time, so I threw it on the grill. This is not the first time for grilled London broil. My dad grilled them all the time and so have I. Another cheap cut of meat in the long history of dinners that passed for steak when I was growing up. If you cook London broil to medium rare and cut it thin on the bias, I have found that it isn't too bad, still tough but tolerable.

On Monday I seasoned the meat before throwing it on the grill. I knew that added flavor would help. And it did but I overcooked the meat. It came off well done, way over cooked for me, absolutely perfect for Dinah. In my opinion the meat was tough, as expected, but also dry. But since it was cooked to Dinah's preference I still got some brownie points. We ate half and I put the other half in the fridge as leftovers.

I began to ponder, can you tenderize meat that has already been cooked? A quick survey on Google showed that I was not the first to ask this question. However, I could not find a single good answer anywhere. Every reply in a forum where the question had been asked the answer came back as how to prevent cooked meat from being tough in the first place. That's not an answer (major pet peeve is people answering a question with something other than what was asked. Grrrrr).

Tenderizing of meat comes from breaking down the protein fibers through acids, enzymes, salt, slow cooking such as braising or mechanical means such as grinding or cubing. This is why you are supposed to marinate the London broil before you cook it. I think my Mom used to use Italian dressing. The vinegar in the dressing provided the acid for breaking down the fibers in the meat. But would it work with cooked meat?

I took out my leftover London broil and chopped it up. The goal here was to increase the surface area exposed to the tenderizer and to maximize the depth of penetration. If you marinate a thick cut steak, only the outer edge of the steak gets tenderized. The marinade does not penetrate maybe more than an 1/8 of an inch deep. This is why injection marinade systems were created.

For comparison, I cut the meat into two different sizes. One pile was roughly pea sized, maybe a 1/4 inch cubed. In the other pile the meat was cut into slivers three times as long as the cubes. I dumped all of the meat into my crock pot, probably about a pound's worth. Next I poured in a 1/4 cup of vinegar and half a bottle of barbecue sauce plus enough vinegar to wash out the bottle. I probably had between 1/3 and 1/2 cup total of vinegar. Slow cooking pork ribs in barbecue sauce results in tender meat because of the vinegar in the sauce. Since my meat was already cooked I thought I might need an extra bit of vinegar to work some magic. As a bonus, I added a couple shakes of Worcestershire sauce, mainly for flavor but it's main ingredient is vinegar too, so it couldn't hurt.

After two hours on high, the small cubes of meat cut easily with a fork but the slivers were still resisting, soft but you couldn't cut them with a fork. At four hours the slivers of meat cut with a fork but the cubes had now shredded. My goal of this experiment was to see if the meat could be tenderized post cooking. I was not looking for taste, however the meat was good, though maybe a little vinegary which is OK with barbecue.

While I was able to tenderize the meat I was not able to restore moisture. This means that we need to keep the concepts of meat being moist and tender as separate. Sure, a forkful was moist from the wet barbecue sauce coating the meat, the meat itself was still dry. This tells me that meat behaves somewhat like clay. Prior to heating, moisture can be added. With a little bit of heat, the clay dries out but can be restored by kneading in water but at some temperature point the moisture is driven out and cannot be restored. Your clay has now becomes a coffee cup. Same with the meat. We can add moisture with a method like brining but once we have cooked the meat until it is dry, no amount of moisture can be added back, even if the piece is swimming in moisture.

So, next time you accidentally over cook that roast or steak and end up with a tough piece of leather, don't despair. Chop it or shredded it and find an acidic marinade to break it down. It won't be moist but it will be tender and edible and you won't be throwing the meat away.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Strata Revisited or My Little Helper

I brought Rose home from school early today. I figured might as well since she had her Valentine's Day party and it was Friday after all.

So now the difficulty was how to prepare dinner with an active 2 1/2 year old? Chicken Strata is easy, but just how easy. Everything came together very well for Sous Chef Rose I have to say.











Another Use for Leftover Mashed Potatoes

Last night while I was burning up my scale on my stove, I was baking four loaves of bread. Two were sourdough, two were mashed potato bread. All four loaves came out great. I'll freeze the sourdough to get me through the next two weeks.

According to my cookbook, you are supposed to use "freshly mashed potatoes" which seems to indicate using boiled potatoes fresh out of the water. I had left over mashed potatoes from dinner the other night when I made polenta crusted chicken. When I make mashed potatoes I add in milk and butter and sometimes salt while I whip them in my stand mixer. This was not quite what the recipe called for but I decided to use my leftovers anyway. I wonder if the content should be upped just a smidgen to 2/3 of a cup since part of that 1/2 cup of mashed potatoes is milk and butter. But then again, it probably wouldn't be a significant change anyway.

The recipe called for scalded milk. I really see no reason to scald milk but I couldn't remember why. I was pretty sure scalding milk hearkens back to days of unpasteurized milk. In her book Cookwise: The Secrets of Cooking Revealed, Shirley O. Corriher basically states the same thing. However she does reference a study at Michigan State in 1975 that identified a protein in milk that inhibits rising in bread. This protein I guess is destroyed in the scalding of milk. Ms. Corriher then hypothesizes that it is the quantity of the protein in the milk used for cooking that makes a difference and that maybe a 1/2 cup of milk is the threshold level, depending on how you read her paragraph. So to be safe, I thought I would scald my milk but I hate scalding milk on the stove. Scalding milk means to take it just below a full boil which I believe is around 190°F. Pasteurization of milk is around 163°F. This seems like a perfect application for a microwave. I chose to split the difference in temperature. Two minutes in the microwave heated the milk to 175°F. Of course I have nothing to compare to, so who knows if all that effort made a difference.

I used my stand mixer to make this bread because part of the directions call for beating the batter for 10 minutes by hand! Not! I think an electric mixer would have been fine for this stage as it is more of a batter than a dough.

The mashed potato bread was wonderfully soft and flavorful. The sugar addition made it just a tad sweeter than a regular bread but nothing like say Hawaiian bread rolls. Just something a little bit different.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Stupid Human Tricks

I have a bad habit of using our flat top electric stove as extra counter space. If we had the counter space, I probably wouldn't need to. We have to have the biggest kitchen with no counter space.

I melted my beloved scale tonight :(

I like to use it on the stove because it's a flat surface. We've got stupid tile counters so I don't have a stable base. I was boiling water on the stove, or so I thought, when Dinah calls out "something's really hot!" Black acrid smoke was billowing over the stove. I had put the scale over the front burner and had thought I had turned on the rear burner to boil some water. The large one right under the scale. Melted it right to the stove. Did I mention I'm not a big fan of the stove either? I loved my flat top in Michigan but it had indicators to tell me which burners were hot. This stove only tells me by the glowing circle of heat under the pan. I make this mistake all the time. And to top it all off, when I attempt to turn the burner back on for the water, I turn the damn front burner on again, burning the black plastic white.

Dammit.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

In Memory of Hops, 1994-2009

I don't know where all of the pics from her younger days are. This is just a few from my digital camera days. She and I had been through a lot together, truly the best of times and the worst of time. It's soooo quite here. I miss her.